How to Wash Your Locs (Without Causing Buildup)

Clean locs lock faster, look better and smell fresh. But the way you wash them matters as much as how often. Wash the wrong way and you can end up with buildup inside your locs, the white or gray residue that no amount of scrubbing on the outside will reach.

Here is how to wash locs the right way, whether you have Sisterlocks, microlocs or traditional locs.

How often should you wash locs?

For most people, every 1–2 weeks is a good rhythm. Wash more often if you work out a lot or have an oily scalp, and a little less if your scalp tends to be dry.

New starter locs are the exception. Your stylist may ask you to wait a little longer at first, or to wash gently with a stocking cap so they do not unravel. See starter locs: the first six months.

Choose a residue-free shampoo

This is the most important step. Many shampoos and conditioners for loose natural hair contain heavy oils, butters or silicones that rinse off loose hair but get trapped inside locs.

Look for a shampoo that is:

• Clear, not creamy. Creamy shampoos often leave residue.
• Labeled residue-free or clarifying.
• Light on heavy oils and butters.

Skip most conditioners, or use only a light, watery leave-in on the ends. Heavy conditioner is one of the biggest causes of buildup.

Step by step: washing your locs

1. Wet your locs completely. Locs hold a lot of water. Let warm water run through them for a minute or two.
2. Dilute your shampoo. Mixing it with water in an applicator bottle helps it reach your scalp and rinse out cleanly.
3. Focus on your scalp. Massage with your fingertips, not your nails. Your scalp is where the oil and sweat are.
4. Squeeze the suds through your locs. Do not rub locs together, which causes frizz and lint. Gently squeeze from root to tip.
5. Rinse longer than you think. Then rinse again. Leftover shampoo turns into buildup.
6. Squeeze out the water. Press each section, then wrap in a microfiber towel or old T-shirt. Regular towels leave lint.

Dry your locs completely

Damp locs that stay damp for hours can start to smell musty, and over time, mildew can grow inside the loc.

• Let them air-dry fully, or sit under a hooded dryer.
• Do not go to bed with wet locs.
• Wash earlier in the day so they have time to dry.

Thick or long locs can take many hours to dry fully. If they still feel cool and heavy in the middle, they are not dry yet.

Signs of buildup (and how to clear it)

Buildup is a mix of product, oil, dead skin and lint trapped inside your locs. Watch for:

• White or gray specks inside your locs, especially near the root.
• Locs that feel stiff, heavy or waxy.
• A smell that comes back soon after washing.

A deep cleanse every few months helps. An apple cider vinegar (A.C.V.) rinse is a popular way to break down residue. At our salon, we offer an Organic A.C.V. Rinse on Locs for $25 (about 15 minutes) that you can add to any loc appointment.

Products to use (and to avoid)

Use: residue-free shampoo, light water-based sprays, a few drops of light oil on your scalp if it is dry, and rosewater or aloe for moisture.

Avoid: heavy waxes, thick butters, creamy conditioners, and gels that flake. They build up fast in locs, especially small ones like Sisterlocks and microlocs.

Washing before your loc appointment

If you wash at home before a retie or retwist, wash within 12 hours of your appointment and skip heavy products. Or let us do it: our Loc Retwist & Style includes a steam shampoo and conditioning, and our Sisterlocks and microloc reties include a shampoo too.

Book a loc appointment at our salon on Muddy Branch Road in Gaithersburg.